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On the West Highland Way - Scotland from its wild side

· 1 review · Travelog · Loch Lomond · September 18, 2023
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  • On the West Highland Way through Glencoe
    On the West Highland Way through Glencoe
    Photo: CC0, pixabay.com
Cosy pubs, a pint of Guinness and bagpipes: the Scots are hard to fool when it comes to culture and hospitality. But on closer inspection, you soon realise that the country in the north of Great Britain has much more to offer. With the Highlands and hundreds of small islands, Scotland can also score points in terms of scenery. One of the best ways to explore the country on foot is the West Highland Way, which takes me from Milngavie to Fort William.

According to current statistics, the 150 km long long-distance footpath is walked by around 50,000 walkers every year. The West Highland Way offers many insights into the varied landscape of Scotland and is fully signposted. The infrastructure around the trail is very good. There are plenty of camping sites, bed and breakfasts and many inns.

Great waters and ghost stories

The first highlight on the way is Loch Lomond. Scotland's largest lake is nestled between rolling hills and measures about 39 km from north to south. The same length runs along the eastern shore from Balmaha to Inverarnan.

The route along Loch Lomond is relatively demanding. While the infrastructure is mainly restricted to the west bank, I find a quiet, wooded landscape to the east, perfect for walkers and nature lovers. The shore path is heavily affected by erosion, some paths are even completely destroyed. Diversions are regularly set up on site, but a little spirit of adventure won't hurt!

Between Inversnaid and the northern end of the lake, I am immersed in a famous legend. Rob Roy was a Scottish outlaw who became a folk hero through tales of his exploits in the mid-17th century. I visit a small cave – the place where Rob Roy hid from the Duke of Montrose's men.

In the tranquil little town of Inverarnan on the north side of the lake is the Drovers Inn, which has a history stretching back almost 300 years and is particularly well known among paranormal enthusiasts. It is said to be haunted. On the website of the inn, guests regularly report eerie apparitions. Not that I'm afraid of ghosts – but I still leave it at a beer in the Drovers Inn and stay somewhere else.
Drovers Inn, Inverarnan
Drovers Inn, Inverarnan
Photo: Rosser1954, CC BY-SA, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=53809515

Untouched nature and the devil's staircase

I continue through the Strathfillan valley until I finally reach Rannoch Moor behind the small, deserted village of Bridge of Orchy. The moor is situated on a plateau and is known for its almost untouched nature. The reason is that the soil is not suitable for agricultural use. As a result, the landscape here is still particularly pristine.
Devil's Staircase
Devil's Staircase
Photo: CC0, pixabay.com
To the west I leave Rannoch Moor and head towards Glen Coe. Here the mountainous part of the West Highland Way begins and the route reaches its highest point at the Aonach Eagach pass at about 584m. The actual name of the „Devil's Staircase“ dates back to the 18th century. Soldiers who had to transport building materials over the pass had to contend with the impassability and concluded that the section of road must have been built by the devil himself.

A detour to Britain's highest mountain

After overcoming the Devil’s Staircase, the route continues steadily downhill to Kinlochleven in Glen Nevis and on to Fort William, the destination of the West Highland Way. The town lies at the foot of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Great Britain. Although it is not an official part of the West Highland Way, the ascent of the 1344-metre peak is a thrilling finale for many long-distance hikers.
Long-Distance Hiking · United Kingdom
West Highland Way – Scotlands first long distance hiking trail
Premium content Difficulty moderate
Distance 150.5 km
Duration 37:30 h
Ascent 2,636 m
Descent 2,674 m

The West Highland Way is the first official long-distance hiking trail in Scotland and runs from Milngavie north of Glasgow to Fort William.

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from Joern Perschbacher,   Outdooractive Premium
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Joern Perschbacher
Update: September 18, 2023

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Stories United Kingdom Loch Lomond On the West Highland Way - Scotland from its wild side