Ulligunde - Passion, fear and the rush of a summit
Nature can be discovered, experienced and enjoyed in so many different ways. Mountains continue to capture our imagination and provide an exhilarating environment for a great number of our favorite activities including hiking, climbing, skiing and even flying! In the mountains, limits are tested - listening to your instincts, trusting your judgement and adapting to volatile conditions is key. Blogger, photographer and passionate mountaineer, Erika Alias Ulligunde from the Allgäu area of Germany lets us in on her own incredible experiences and reveals to us what it means to conquer mountains as a woman, master extreme situations and trust oneself wholeheartedly.
As a passionate mountaineer, you have been able to experience the mountains in many different ways. You were initially interested in high-altitude hiking and alpine climbing and have since changed your focus to biking and paragliding. How did this change of focus come about?
This change in focus came about in steps. I started out in the classic way in college with trekking, hiking and indoor climbing, later I added alpine routes and then ice climbing – those activites have just always been extremely appealing to me. However, in all of this, I had an issue with anxiety, I have always had the motivation to face it and work with it, but it never really went away, I just learned to deal with it.
A few years ago I added paragliding and later bikepacking - and at the same time I moved away from alpine climbing to challenging mountaineering. Aside from the sheer beauty of high alpine sunrises, I have enormously enjoyed being able to routinely, efficiently and independently undertake these challenging alpine routes. I have had countless moments of absolute 'flow', feeling fully connected to my environment, for example when I climbed the Doldenhorn.
Until the shocking day two years ago on the Schreckhorn, when before my eyes my mountain partner had a fatal accident. After a rather long period of mourning, during which I did absolutely nothing, my paraglider brought me back to life, and I recently started climbing again.
The stories of your adventures are made so special by their authenticity – not just facts, but feelings are the primary focus of your blog posts. Which mountain adventure feels the most memorable for you?
Of course, the tragic and fatal accident of my friend was something that I will never forget, but I have also experienced so many incredibly beautiful experiences - in particular, very long, high-alpine routes with my husband (Devil's Ridge on Mont Blanc!) or somewhat smaller routes, with equally fit & physically capable women - these experiences are always something very special to me.
And an absolutely crazy, though ultimately harmless fall on the north face of the big pinnacle. We climbed the route 'Comici', on one of the very last pitches, directly above an overhanging roof, a hold broke off and I fell into the open. That was probably the only time in my life that I actually screamed at the top of my lungs! Thankfully, I saw that the belay chain was holding - however, it is not a nice feeling to deal with when you are dangling a few hundred meters above the ground with a fear of heights and have to keep your cool and build a self-rescue into the rope!
For many people, it can be really challenging to start new sports/activities. How have you managed to get into so many new sports? What have you learned from taking on new challenges?
I just love change and new things! I think you get to learn so much about yourself when you take on new challenges. Learning to paraglide, I was put in the unusual situation of being an absolute beginner - with no flying experience, you are literally completely overwhelmed with everything initially. A beautiful exercise in humility!
This tour takes us from the idyllic Hintersteiner Valley up to the heights of the Allgäu mountains with the famous Nebelhorn. We descend with the ...
But of course, the learning curve is also extremely steep, which in turn gives back an amazing feeling of accomplishment. When you can see your home and the Nebelhorn or other high mountains from above, for me, that is simply a magical experience!
How do you deal with fear in extreme situations and what have you learned from your experiences?
Through my personal experiences, I have discovered that I am somebody who is more afraid of fear itself. I have learned to recognize the 'type' of fear that I feel in a given moment and whether I need to listen to, and respond to these feelings or not. You cannot turn fear off - but you can train yourself to deal with fear and anxiety, and act accordingly.
On the other hand, I know that I am able to think and act absolutely rationally and I am usually completely calm in extreme situations, which makes the fear of fear feel all the more irrational! You can feel inadequate pretty quickly because you get the impression that you're the only person struggling, but that's not true - fear is completely normal. For me, understanding what exactly you're afraid of and when that fear may arise is incredibly important for overcoming your anxieties.
Where does your passion for the mountains come from? Did you experience nature a lot as a child?
I come from a family of sailors, and my father has a real fear of heights. I remember, as a teenager, seeing a picture of a woman who was using ice tools and crampons to climb, and I was completely fascinated by it - I can't say exactly why. At the same time, I was totally convinced that I could never do something like this. To have proven yourself wrong in your own self-doubts is a very powerful feeling, for example when ice climbing at Il Droc in Val Gardena. Today, when I find myself thinking that I can't do something, I know that it does not have to be true.
You've managed to turn your passions into a profession. After your work at Outdooractive, you started your own business as an artist and you record your own podcasts. Do you feel as though you've some what lost your hobby?
When you turn your hobby into a profession, you inevitably lose some of it - but I can console myself with the fact that every now and then I get paid for climbing mountains and being outdoors! Anyway - there's something to complain about in every profession isn't there!? The fact that I now get to know so many special people through the podcast, and have the chance to talk to them in peace and quiet, is a huge gift. Just like the fact that I can earn money with my pictures and drawings. I am very grateful for this life! There are, of course also stressful moments with self-employment, but that's part of it.
What have the mountains taught you?
Above all else, Just do it! We humans are brilliant at overthinking things and getting caught up in worst-case scenario thoughts. When you take the first step (with reasonable planning and know-how, of course), it usually turns out well! Both with a pitch that looks difficult from below, as with a summit that seems so far away.
I noticed on my three-week bike trip through Scotland, how often people told me how brave my trip was. I always ask them what they are specifically afraid of, most of the time, they mention things that are extremely unlikely. Their fears are so often based on things stirred up in childhood. Of course I take certain safety precautions, but I also have a certain amount of faith in myself and in life. As I said, it usually turns out well - and if it doesn't, I just take life as it comes! In any case, I'm more afraid on a backstreet in Glasgow than camped in my tent in the wild!
The mountains have also taught me: To have the self-confidence to do so much more than I think I'm capable of. To treasure the strong bonds that develop between people when you go through genuine emotions together. The realization of how quickly life can be over and how painful this game we play in the mountains can be. On the other hand, how wonderful every day is with a healthy body, a joyful mood, shared with awesome people!
In your articles, you often focus on the topic of women in the mountains. What is so different for women in mountain sports than for men?
My personal experience is that women are much more open about their feelings, concerns and doubts. They look out for each other, particularly in the case of sharing a demanding undertaking. I find it reassuring to know that I can express my fears openly, no matter how irrational they may seem. Of course, there are also many men who are like this, but some can not understand certain fears and often do not have the necessary tact to deal with it appropriately. With women, in my experience, it's not the achievement that's in the foreground, but the shared experience. Last but not least, I often climb more proficiently with women because I don't have the comfort of a 'ropegun' (climbing partner who climbs all pitches) with me, so you have to solve all of the problems and difficult situations yourself. This provides me with heaps of self-assurance and confidence and shows once again that we women can often do more than we think!
How does your journey continue? Have you already planned the next great adventure?
I just got back from three amazing weeks of bikepacking in Scotland and I am deep in work - so at the moment my head is not yet in planning mode. I've started climbing again this year and I am really enjoying it - it would be brilliant if the desire for alpine climbing would come back too! Otherwise, I'm just looking for meaningful moments in the mountains with lots of joy, moments of 'flow' and great people. I'll keep an open mind - until two years ago I always said I hated cycling! So maybe next year I'll sail across the Atlantic or start riding? Who knows what's coming! Anyway, I'm looking forward to whatever else my life has in store!
If you want to see some of Ulligunde's routes, check out her Outdooractive profile. Click here to visit her profile.
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This tour takes us from the idyllic Hintersteiner Valley up to the heights of the Allgäu mountains with the famous Nebelhorn. We descend with the ...
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